IrishAurora posted a review for Estia's Little Kitchen on Jan 24, 12 10:31 AM 5 Stars.
"Went here this Sunday for brunch (a little after 1) and was delighted to find that breakfast was still available! Both me and my dining buddy were thrilled with our meals (we both ordered what I think was called the Grand Ranch?) Delicous! The service was super friendly and quick! My only complaint was they were super busy and we had to wait about 20 minutes for a table but we expected this as former reviewers had mentioned how little the place is and busy. I say, good for them! I don't mind waiting when the dining experience is this good."
On most summer days at Estia’s Little Kitchen on the fringe of Sag Harbor Village,
families meander outside under apple, pear and peach trees while waiting for a table at
the celebrated café. Children wait hungrily for fresh fruit pancakes while they poke at
bright yellow zucchini blossoms, finger cherry-red stalks of Swiss chard and smell mint
nestled among a kaleidoscope of native flowers.
For chef and owner Colin Ambrose, the image evokes memories of his own children’s
earliest interactions with food, beginning at his first farm on Lorne Michael’s Amagansett
property where he created a chefs co-op for local produce. The fruits of that venture
made his first restaurant, Estia’s Coffee Shop, the kind of place where locals and visitors
alike wouldn’t bat an eyelash at waiting in line down Main Street, Amagansett for a
sample of blueberry pancakes or the signature two-hour salad, a seasonal selection of
produce plucked warm from the ground just hours before it was artfully presented on a
diner’s plate.
That coffee shop’s lease was sold years ago as Ambrose began to focus his culinary
energies on Estia’s Little Kitchen after buying the once sleepy Tony’s Coffee Shop in
1998.
Ambrose ceased farming at Michaels’ property in part because of geography but also
because of a hungry deer population. However, The Little Kitchen, as it is known to
scores of regulars, has retained the devout loyalty of Ambrose’s clientele, and this year,
Ambrose has returned to his roots, building a kitchen garden on one-third of an acre
behind his restaurant. The garden teems with fruits and vegetables that make their way
onto plates at the Little Kitchen, supplemented when needed by the produce of local
farmers like Bette Lacina and Dale Haubrich, Marilee Foster, David Falkowski, Alex
Balsam, Ian Calder-Piedmonte and longtime friend and mentor Scott Chaskey of Quail
Hill Farm in Amagansett.
“I buy from who I can, who I trust and what works for us,” said Ambrose on Monday
morning, sitting at a table outside of his restaurant. “I bought Milk Pail peaches for our
blueberry peach pancakes while I wait for my peaches to ripen. I just bought a bunch of
carrots and potatoes from Bette and Dale for South Fork succotash.”
The Little Kitchen has long supported local farmers, and while Ambrose remains
committed to the South Fork farms, he added he is pleased he is now able to bring more
of his own food into the Little Kitchen.
The kitchen garden was designed by Susan Meyer and Ambrose, and was established
this past fall making this spring and summer The Little Kitchen Garden’s first harvest.
The garden is tended to by Ambrose, but also by Jeff Negron who on many days can be
seen from the Sag Harbor-Bridgehampton Turnpike pruning the Little Kitchen’s
decade-old blueberry bushes or inspecting heads of delicate lettuce nestled under the
natural shade of a birch tree.
True to Ambrose’s lifelong culinary commitment to chemical-free, seasonal local produce
– something the restaurateur has embraced long before the practice became trendy –
the kitchen garden is fertilized by Ambrose’s own compost, turned in three concrete
compost bins at the edge of the restaurant property. Bits of eggshell can be seen poking
up from soil in the rows of basil.
Ambrose’s career began in 1991 when he bought Estia’s in Amagansett, creating a
restaurant focused on local produce, fish with a Mexican influence finding its way into
menu items. After befriending Chaskey and becoming enamored with the idea of farming
his own crops, Ambrose reached out to regular customer and artist John Alexander and
asked him if he knew of any fallow land he could use.
Enter Lorne Michaels. The Saturday Night Live creator allowed Ambrose to create a
two-acre garden on his property. A pasture for 50 years, Ambrose nearly drools when
describing the “enhanced Bridgehampton loam” that his vegetables took root in. A
regular customer, Rhett, agreed to clear the acreage for coffee and eggs at Estia for five
months and Ambrose’s first garden was born.
His partners in what would become known as The Basil Brothers Chefs Co-op included
famed chefs Charlie Palmer and Rick Moonen, along with local chefs Dennis MacNeil,
Gerry Hayden and the late Kevin Henry.
“They were all so influential in the easy days of East Hampton’s culinary development,”
said Ambrose of the latter three.
For two years, the chef’s co-op flourished, and while Ambrose still considers many of
those men his brothers, the co-op eventually dwindled and after buying The Little
Kitchen in 1998, Ambrose eventually stopped gardening on the property.
Ambrose continued to be a member of Quail Hill Farm in Amagansett, his daughters
Lyman and Mansell and wife Jessica joining him, as they did on the Michaels property, to
collect vegetables for the family dinner table.
Now with the garden in place, Ambrose said he is not only thrilled to see the property
take on a whole new aura, animals finding their way onto the property that never have
before, and families finding their children drawn to the garden, just as his own children
were when they were young.
“This is beyond a place to eat,” said Ambrose, slightly tearing. “Children wander through
the garden and I tell their parents to let them pick a green bean. That is getting me to the
next level.”
Lyman and Mansell, who formed their own company – A. Sisters Food Company — two
years ago, selling “lymanade” of various flavors, fresh pasta and pesto, have taken on
the family tradition of celebrating fresh, local food.
“We were so connected to the garden,” said Lyman on Tuesday. “It was fun to just be
there with my dad, but it also really opened our eyes up about what is right to eat.
Friends would tell me I was a picky eater, but that was because I grew up eating the
best. That sad salad they served to me at boarding school was not something I was
going to touch.”
Lyman, who is studying business and nutritional sciences at Bucknell this fall said she
was always proud of her father, but once she and Mansell started their business and
began selling their goods at local farm stands they witnessed first hand the kind of
relationships he has built with people over the last two decades.
“It has been great to see the reaction everyone has to him,” said Lyman. “To see that
side of it and how much people love that restaurant, it’s mind blowing that one man can
produce that kind of following.”
Ambrose would likely blush at those comments.
“It’s not my goal to be anything more than I am today,” he said, wrapping up the
interview. “I am that guy who will spend the next three hours getting this garden ready
for the weekend. My job is to be a good father and just do what we do here.”
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Local Bay Scallops Coquille St. Jacques "the scallops that stopped time"
Quail Hill Greenhouse Salad w/ roasted beets, goat cheese and pumpkin
seeds
Chorizo & Venison Stew w/ butter beans and dumpling squash
Lemon Custard Tart w/ blueberries and vanilla bean whipped cream
( vegetarian requests honored )
Fixed price all night $28.00 per person.
All local wines discounted for this event by 30% per bottle.
(East Hampton, NY - December 2010) Artist Peter Spacek (visit on facebook) shows his art with a littoral bent from Sunday, December 12, 2010 to February 7, 2011 at Estia’s Little Kitchen in Sag Harbor, NY. An artist reception will be held on Sunday, December 12 from 4:30-6:30 with a Dine with the Artist Dinner to follow. The dinner will feature a special prix fix menu ($28), accompanied by 30% off all local wine bottles for the evening.
Perhaps best known for his cartoons about Hamptons’ ‘goings on’, this exhibit focuses on Peter’s love of all things fishy. After the success of Spacek’s first show “Salty Inky Fingers”, Peter continues exploring his craft of ‘modern scrimshaw’, this time etching striped bass and other local fish tales into the fiberglass of aged surfboards. He will also offer hand-colored prints of surfing cartoons from his recently published book, “Surf and Mirth”, including other pen and ink drawings on paper. Wave and landscape drawings from Peter’s sketchbooks, various travel journals and other works of water-wise whimsy will also be on view. Works range from $20 prints to $4,000 for Spacek’s scrimshaw on surfboards.
Artist Peter Spacek has been creating cartoons about Hamptons life since 2006 beginning with weekly opinion-page contributions to The East Hampton Star. Peter is also a professional illustrator for ad agencies, magazines and newspapers, including The Surfer’s Journal and The New York Times. Peter has traveled the world sketching, surfing and fishing. He became a full-time East End resident in 1994 and lives in Springs alongside the Bonackers. His book, “Surf and Mirth,” published by Ditch Ink in 2010, is available online for $18.95 at www.ditchink.com, and select retailers.
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Thursday, September 16, 2010
Awarded to: Estia Little Kitchen
Star Rating: 4
City: Sag Harbor State: NY
Category: Restaurants
Presented by: Celebration Media U.S. (CMUS) and Talk of the Town News
Congratulations! Only the very best businesses have been chosen to receive the 2010 CMUS Talk of the Town Award for Excellence in Customer Satisfaction. The award was created to showcase companies that excel in serving their customers and getting their high marks. Customers of Estia Little Kitchen have spoken, scoring some of the highest ratings possible.
Celebration Media U.S. (CMUS) is a co-sponsor of the award and an independent professional research and marketing company that monitors positive and negative reviews, blogs and social networks to determine the highest-rated and top-reviewed businesses in all 50 states of the country. The 2010 CMUS Talk of the Town Award is here to celebrate your high achievement in customer satisfaction.
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MELTING POT
A lifetime of cooking experiences coalesces in a roadside restaurant.By Geraldine Pluenneke Skepticism played over the documentary film director's face after he crossed the unpaved parking lot then scanned the 10 tables and six counter stools squeezed into the tiny butter-yellow restaurant. The expession changed to surprise as he sipped an award-winning rosé from Channing Daughters vineyards two miles away, then visible enthusiasm as he dug into his entrée. When I ran into Norman a month later, he grinned, "I've been back to that restaurant with friends four times since you took me there." Susan, who lives in Amagansett, returned three times after our lunch of shrimp quesadillas last month, her first time in the restaurant. There are some who say that you can find the best Mexican food in the Hamptons in Estia's Little Kitchen on the outskirts of Sag Harbor on the Bridgehampton-Sag Harbor Turnpike. Actually its menu reflects executive chef-owner Colin Ambrose's peripatetic travels through several score of cutting-edge kitchens across the U.S. It began as a 12-year journey in which he learned to cook and it's recorded on his menus today. In the Little Kitchen he has added Mexican flavors to his original passion for fresh, local ingredients. His craving for freshness dates back to childhood when he would cut a stalk of rhubarb in his grandfather's Midwest garden and dip it in the bowl of sugar he'd brought outside with the knife. "This is not a Mexican menu but it has those overlays," says sandy-haired Ambrose. In the evenings when the white tablecloths come out, the feel is continental, and the presentation unfamiliar to many who haunt Tex-Mex hangouts. There is a 50-plus selection of wines, including a notable 20 from top Long Island vineyards. There are shrimp enchiladas jammed with Mexican flavors, mussels in a sophisticated tomatillo broth accompanied by thinly sliced, crisp corn tortillas instead of potatoes. There is salmon ceviche, roasted loin of pork with mole sauce, chicken and beans with sofrito rice, pozole and tortilla soups. Influenced by the Tijuana region of Mexico, there is steak Azteca, thin strips of hanger steak braided, marinated and grilled and served with potatoes glazed in a shiny tobacco-brown sauce of ground hot, smoky chilies. At lunch and breakfast along with its omelets and salads are burritos, fish tacos, quesadillas, each served with outstanding, spicy salsas made with fresh ingredients in their prime. Many locals regard the Little Kitchen proprietarily as a favorite, comfortable breakfast gathering spot, often spiked by celebrity sightings. As Ambrose says, the Little Kitchen is not Mexican, "We don't call it Poco Cocina. We don't have strings of colored paper cutouts." It doesn't have vintage Mexican posters like that of Viva Zapata hanging at East Hampton's newly returned Blue Parrot or a menu heavily weighted toward casual Mexican eats. The Little Kitchen has white tablecloths and local wines, which sets it apart from the lively mix of young crowds and children at Montauk's Hideaway off West Lake Drive, or Amagansett's La Fondita, one of the most authentic East End spots with Mexicans doing Mexican food in a Mexican environment. Ambrose's focus on local ingredients differs from the long-established, nine-unit Meson Ole's familiar Mexican-Spanish dishes. Funcho's Fajita Grill in Riverhead and Westhampton Beach is more traditional Mexican-American. Ambrose delights in patronizing two South Fork groceries for Mexican ingredients: Amagansett's Chiquita Latina and Sag Harbor's Agave, which serves excellent hot carnitas, a benchmark for Mexican take-out kitchens. Ambrose entered the restaurant business on a chilly January day in 1991 when he first walked into Estia, a Greek coffee shop in Amagansett and 10 days later owned it. He'd had a decade in the restaurant industry as a writer and consultant under his belt. Then came several amuses-bouches of fate. A week before the restaurant was to begin its second high season, the chef walked out. An untrained Ambrose headed to the stove and soon was turning out fresh pasta flavored with spinach, basil and fresh ingredients of the season. Next, Lorne Michaels, executive producer of "Saturday Night Live" invited Ambrose to grow vegetables for the restaurant on almost an acre. And so one of Estia's specialties became a two-hour salad, ingredients harvested less than 120 minutes before service began. This summer, on its one acre of land, a new one-third acre kitchen garden will supply the restaurant with herbs and vegetables. The Little Kitchen also supplements its menu with a small harvest of its own fruit-peaches, rhubarb, raspberries, strawberries, even kiwis. For three weeks into early August you'll taste, for example, blueberries from its 35 high-bush blueberry stand. There were hints of Mexico from the start. Alec Baldwin hankered for a burrito filled with scrambled egg whites, a veggie burger, vegetables and Jack cheese, and it's still on the menu as "big Al's burrito" with a house-made veggie burger used only for that dish. Early on, Ambrose's memorable Turtle Roll, his suburban American mother's recipe, landed on the menu. Mexican flavors-among them fresh cilantro, ripe tomatoes, beans, corn and onions-are rolled in a tortilla then sliced like sushi or a California roll. "We started to migrate into Mexican flavors," recalls Ambrose who wanted a "point of difference" to set himself apart from competitors in the newly, hot Hamptons, "and because the majority of people on my staff were Mexican. It started with salsa in Amagansett's Estia, then it went to bean purees, then it went to enchiladas, then tamales. These were all specials, items that were the icing on the cake. Then they became the cake." It certainly didn't hurt that some employees like then main chef Ruben Bravo were hardwired to produce the "authentic flavor profile" that Colin hankered for. Bravo once explained that if he wanted to capture remembered flavors, he phoned his mother in her little village in Mexico for exact instructions. Ambrose sold Estia in Amagansett in 2004. But today those cooking and serving in Estia's Little Kitchen, some of whom have been there since Ambrose bought it in 1999, bring a similar expertise from their south-of-the-border heritage. Staff like Pamela Donzalez, Julia Hernandez, and Raul Dina hail from Puebla (pozole and occasional mole dishes) and Acapulco (tortilla soup and fish tacos). Rounding out the regular team during a frenetic spring Sunday brunch hour is Vi Dao, from Vietnam. Flavors from the Ambrose kitchen remain built on fresh ingredients, one of the secrets of why a Little Kitchen taco or quesadilla is packed with flavors that elude most American Mexican restaurants. He is adamant about quality. "My salsa costs me $18 a gallon to make," more than double the price of commercial salsas. The skill of his staff underlies what arrives on your plate. Then there is Ambrose's passion for implanting leitmotifs from one cuisine to another to create a dinner menu, for example, that feels Mexican, but actually isn't. In the late 90s, Ambrose toured Mexico to nail down the flavors he had been playing with, just as he had earlier explored the techniques of restaurant kitchens by working two or three short stints a year in them as a guest during his slow winter seasons. He first worked on the kitchen lines of such restaurants as Charlie Palmer's Aureole, Bobby Flay's Mesa Grill and Bolo and Michael Romano's Union Square Café in Manhattan, then on to Susan Spicer's Bayona in New Orleans and Michael Mina's Aqua in San Francisco. "I was in my 30s and I was the oldest guy on the line by 10 years. It was brutal." His quest then turned cerebral, exchanging the line for words, writing and interviewing another 22 chefs on kitchen chops. "Each experience I had would then influence my menu for the next season. I didn't steal recipes, I watched the way they put things together." For example, Charlie Palmer's potato-crusted scallops emerged as potatocrusted local flounder, still a winner on the Little Kitchen menu. Early in October, Ambrose held the first of a series of special fivecourse dinners featuring local food people and wines in a menu incorporating five cheeses from Lucy's Whey and wines from the North Fork's Bouké Vineyard. A raw food dinner with Giuliana Torre of East Hampton's Juicy Naam was help just before Thanksgiving. Under Ambrose's tutelage, his three daughters aged 16 to 10 as a summer job formed A. Sisters Food Co. and made and sold fresh, flavored pastas at local farmers markets and gourmet shops including Lucy's Whey last season. The Ambrose trio will be back at farm stands with their fresh pasta in mid-June at the start of school vacation. Meanwhile, if you're pondering Estia's Little Kitchen menu, consider that the burritos are worth ordering if only for their accompanying third-inch-thick fried potatoes rendered almost soufflé-airy by a technique collected along Ambrose's kitchen apprenticeship journey. Little Estia is open six days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner (dinner opening varies out of season). Closed Tuesdays. 1615 Sag Harbor Bridge Hampton Turnpike, Sag Harbor, two miles West of Village. 631.725.1045. Lechon, Estia StyleBy Joanne Pilgrim (04/08/2010) Colin Ambrose, the chef and owner at Estia’s Little Kitchen in Sag Harbor, has added menu items centered on the Latin-style lechon, a small, whole-roasted pig. WORDS OF WISDOM FROMChef Colin Ambrose
![]() Apple and Camembert Harvest Salad • 1 crisp sweet apple This Article was taken from the Nest |
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Estia's new Plum TV ads |
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Surf Report: An Edible East End Update, We Mean
Monday, 05 October 2009 21:25 Brian Halweil
Working with Edible East End, our sister magazine out there at the sleepy shore, Hamptons restaurants also turned out for last week's Edible Eat Drink Local Week. And in a great food chain display of love, diners turned out to support these chefs, including Edible East End, which hit six spots last week. (We know, we know, Edible Manhattan hit six in one night, but you just can't nabe-hop like you can in the big city.) |
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Estia's is part of "The New Hamptons Classics" on askmelissa.com,
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Braided Steak Aztecafrom hamptons.com | by Diane Roncone
"Hot potato" takes on new meaning at Estia's Little Kitchen under the skillful hands of Chef Colin Ambrose. Photos by Diane Roncone
Sag Harbor - Serving up some of the spiciest food this side of Shinnecock Canal, Estia's Little Kitchen, located just a mile south of the village on the Bridgehampton-Sag Harbor Turnpike, unexpectedly takes your taste buds on a trip to Tijuana. Proprietor and chef, Colin Ambrose, who claims a love of entertaining at an early age led him to work his way through college in restaurants and pubs, developed a style and attitude that reflects his spirited flare in the kitchen. In his previous restaurant in Amagansett, Ambrose mentioned that he used 12 acres of vacant land - owned by executive producer of "Saturday Night Live" Lorne Michaels - to grow fresh vegetables. When asked how much he had to pay to rent the land, he quipped, “We gave him a nice tuna sandwich every once in awhile.” Ambrose uses blueberries, rhubarb, apples, and peaches in his culinary creations that he grows near the Sag Harbor restaurant. His current specialty is dubbed “Braided Steak Azteca,” which serves four and is made with hanger steak - and loaded with plenty of healthy veggies and tasty seasonings. The key ingredient, according to Ambrose, is adobo chilies. When asked why this dish, and why now, he answered that it is the recipe he is entering in an upcoming contest at the National Restaurant Association Convention. Chef Colin Ambrose likes to spice things up in the kitchen. In the dark of the evenings, lights are dimmed and the tables are covered in linen, giving it an entirely new ambiance. Ambrose says, “A lot of my customers who have eaten breakfast here
What’s coming up next for the chef? “Other things in the media are brewing but I really can’t talk about it at this time.” Braided Steak Azteca (Serves 4) 2 pounds hanger steak Combine the seasoning in advance and set aside. Start with the hanger steak, trim all silver skin, slice the steak into strips the width of your index finger and season the strips lightly with the seasoning mix. Next, braid the steak strips three pieces at a time. Use toothpicks to connect the ends and set the braided steaks aside for at least 30 minutes. Who knew hanger steak could look and taste so good?
Chef Ambrose uses fresh vegetables whenever possible. To prepare the potatoes, slice each potato into quarters then drop them into boiling water for 15 minutes. Remove and set aside on a plate. When the potatoes are removed from the water, replace them with asparagus for two minutes at full boil. Remove the asparagus and cool in ice water. Meanwhile remove as many seeds as possible then crush the chilies in a mortar and pestle until powder-like. To prepare the red onions, slice, squeeze lemon on top, wrap in foil, and cook on grill top. Plan ahead so that your grill can reach the correct temperature: a BBQ that is burning charcoal should be allowed to burn down to a glow before the steaks go on, while a gas grill should be heated and turned to medium. Place the steak braids on the grill and season again lightly (turning every three minutes). Then, over medium heat, add the butter in a sauté pan, followed by potatoes and finally the chili powder and a pinch of salt. Toss until cooked though. Finally, toss the asparagus in olive oil and grill for four minutes or until hot through. Plate with a wedge of lime.
Locals and visitors alike appreciate the warmth of Estia's, as well as the food. The Zagat-rated Estia’s Little Kitchen is open for breakfast and lunch seven days, and for dinner on the weekends. For reservations and other information, call 631-725-1045. |
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Phone (631)725-1045 | 1615 Sag Harbor Bridgehampton Turnpike | Copyright © 2002-2011 Estia's Little Kitchen